8 Amp 96.4W on AC 650% less than what a normal residential fridge will pull - or 375% less than your existing gas/elect unit. And will run off a 600W inverter, (1000W recommended) (does not require pure sign wave). This cooling unit is designed to withstand hot humid temps and will keep your ice-cream hard with 70% faster cooling. 8" from the back of the fridge to the outside or 6 ½" to the inside of your sidewall for compressor clearance, it's still possible if less space is available, we will show you how, see pic above how to measure......650% less Amp draw then your normal residential fridge or 375% less Amp draw then your existing unit with a 70% faster cooling capacity. This unit comes with: foam sealant, thermal mastic, foil tape, self-taping screws, LP gas plug, glass fuse, and interior frost free fin fan, compressor wiring, installation instruction video, basically everything needed to do the install. We could think of a lot of things to mention that the Hvac is the? Alternative way to go in the RV Refrigeration World. But we will keep it brief and try to answer the most asked questions. What is the cooling unit charged with. The difference between my gas/elect unit and this Hvac system is that not only does it make your fridge colder, but its also 70% faster in cooling down. The hum of the fan above the compressor is what you will hear, in order to see if the compressor is on you will have to put your hand on it to feel the vibration. We are told the residential fridges need lots of room, which requires cabinetry redone and also a windshield or side window taken out to remove the old and put in the new. Our cooling unit sits on the back of your existing fridge just like your gas/elect one did, and since we are not removing the fridge there is no extra cabinetry work and removal or installation cost. Are these compressors made to bounce down the road. Unlike a residential fridge, we do not make them rigid, our compressor is sitting on 4 rubber feet and the housing that supports it is very flexible to handle the harmonics and bouncing down the road. How do we know if we have enough battery power or solar to handle this extra draw. Again unlike a residential fridge that draws between 6-8A 960W, my unit draws only.
92W which is less then what most inverters draw by themselves, so the power savings are a huge 350% less then what you had and up to 650% less the a normal residential fridge, so the summary is, it will be hard to tell the difference in your power consumption after this is installed in your fridge? Which is most the power efficient 120V or 12V. But if no inverter is on board then the 12V is still your best alternative. How does this hook up to my fridge and will I need to keep my control board. Yes my unit connects to your control board in the same fashion as your gas/elect unit did, meaning most times the fridge never knows anything changed.
Is this serviceable in the field or do we need to remove the whole unit if need be. Most all of your solder joints are accessible thru your side vent and if need be the compressor can easily be changed thru the side vent as well. The item "Norcold 2118 series Conversion Replacement cooling unit R134A 120V only" is in sale since Tuesday, November 26, 2019.This item is in the category "eBay Motors\Parts & Accessories\RV, Trailer & Camper Parts\Interior". The seller is "dutchaire1" and is located in Shipshewana, Indiana.
This item can be shipped to United States.